The most common concern we get for salt system owners is that the the salt cell is not producing chlorine. However, very often this concern is only triggered because the pool turned green or the water test shows zero free chlorine. More often, if the salt system is fairly new (only a few years old) we find that there's nothing actually wrong with the system. The pump just isn't being ran long enough or the chlorine output is too low, or the pool is not being shocked as needed. Oh yeah, salt pools still need to be shocked. However, if your salt system has a light on or flashing we have additional resources for you. While the examples to follow specifically showcase Hayward Salt Systems, the resources are applicable to other brands.
Below we will cover what to do if,
- "Check Salt" & "Inspect Cell" light is flashing or ON
- Just the "Inspect Cell" light is ON
- "High Salt" light is ON
- "No Flow" light is flashing
We'll also cover some How-To's you'll need for the above processes, such as
- How to Reset Average Salt Levels
- Salt Reading from Independent Testing
Verify salt level is 2700 - 3400ppm (For "High Salt)
- How to Calculate How Much Water Will Need to be Removed from a Pool with
Too Much Salt (for "High Salt")
- A Salt Ratio Chart
- How to Add Salt
"Check Salt" & "Inspect Cell" light is flashing or ON
Just the "Inspect Cell" light is ON
"High Salt" light is ON
"No Flow" light is flashing
How to Reset Average Salt Levels
Salt Reading from Independent Testing
How to Verify salt level is 2700 - 3400ppm
How to Calculate How Much Water Will Need to be Removed from a Pool with Too Much Salt
HOW TO ADD SALT
Allow 10-14 days for the plaster on new pools to cure before adding salt.
STILL NOT FINDING A SOLUTION?
If you have a Hayward salt generator, check out more Hayward salt system specific resources here.